HOW TO PICK A BIRD DOG!
Once you're really turned on to field trialing, you may want to find a
hotshot pup that'll knock everyone's socks off in the field! Here's my method of locating Superpup; perhaps you'll pick up some
clues to help your own search:
I
start first with bloodlines, researching lines of dogs that have proved for several
generations that their hunting instincts are well established and are passed down
predictably. Since I am a confirmed conformation devotee as well as a field fanatic,
and believe that a Dual Championship is the ultimate goal and achievement for both
breeders and owners, I will first eliminate any lines that have been bred strictly for
field, with little or no emphasis placed on conforming to the breed standard.
I want to see plenty of Show Champions in a
pedigree as well as either some Field or Dual Champions or Master or Senior
Hunters, to know that some top field trial competitors or high class personal
hunting dogs have gone into the lines. At the least I'd want Versatility
or Working Certificates or Junior Hunter titles on the parents and grandparents
to suggest the potential for natural hunting ability in the pups.
Physical
soundness is crucial for a field dog. I look for strong OFA histories in the first
two or three generations (or radiographic hip evaluation by another competent source,)
plus an absence of general genetic abnormalities, when I talk with the breeder. Forebears
who have bloated; have had foot, shoulder, or leg problems unrelated to specific injury;
have had early cancer; or who have severe allergies or other poor stress responses are to
be avoided if possible, especially if the pedigree is heavy with them.
Temperament
is another critical factor, although it may not be an issue until one is considering
individual pups. Unless the litter has been hand-raised by the breeder from birth, I
highly recommend that you stay away from pups raised by shy, nervous, or poorly socialized
mama dogs! That attitude transmits almost immediately from dam to pup and is almost
impossible to correct; you cannot reasonably expect these pups to grow into
self-confident, assertive field dogs, no matter how much effort you put into working with
them.
It
is most useful to predetermine the breeder's experience with hunting and field trials
before you consider any litter. Since the breeder has the advantage of
spending the greatest amount of time with the pups, he/she should be able to suggest the
likeliest field prospects from the litter. I ask about the performance records of
the breeder’s selections from past litters and what his purposes were in choosing to
breed these particular two dogs. The chances of finding a top field contender from a
backyard, chance, or strictly showbred litter are indeed slim!
As
part of my investigations, I find that it never hurts to attend local field trials and
hunting tests and to talk with the owners of dogs whose performances have impressed me.
I don't confine my consideration only to breeders currently actively running dogs
in trials. Many a litter of personal hunting dog pups may also have a potential
trialing jewel in its midst!
I
would advise you not to be afraid to call or write to persons advertising hunting and/or
field trial dogs in magazines like Gun Dog, Pointing Dog Journal, or Sports
Afield, but before having a pup shipped to you, be very certain that you and the
breeder mean the exact same things when you speak about hunting and field trial
particulars. Otherwise you may find yourself with, for example, a close-working dog
suitable for Pennsylvania's forested non-retrieving trial grounds, or one bred to run a
mile or more ahead of you on Tennessee plantations with scarcely an objective in sight.
Neither dog, although fine healthy animals and quality birddogs, will excel for
instance on typical Northern California field trial grounds.
Once
the search has been weeded down to a few breeders, it is time to start looking at pups:
Always call ahead and explain what you're looking for to the breeder. Arrange a
specific date and time to see the litter. If you cannot keep the appointment, or
will be over an hour late, common courtesy dictates another call. The breeder has
scheduled a time for your mutual convenience, when the pups will be at their best.
It is to no one's advantage to surprise the breeder and see the pups when they are too
hungry or too sleepy to work well, or when the breeder is preoccupied with a dirty puppy
pen, another client, or is having his own supper!
I
like to bring a new puppy home at approximately seven weeks of age, and I like to have
several opportunities to see the pup with his littermates before that. Seeing the
pups for the first time and trying to pick yours out on the day that most of the litter is
due to depart will not give you an accurate appraisal. The pups will be
over-stimulated by all of the activity and their responses will be skewed by their
individual personalities and reactions to stress. Ideally I would like to see the
pups at five weeks, six weeks, and a day or two prior to picking mine up. This can
be inconvenient if distances are great or the weather uncooperative, but one preliminary
visit under quiet circumstances between five and seven weeks of age is virtually
mandatory. Avoid the days on which the pups have been wormed or have received any
puppy shots or other unusual experience.
Other
than other household members, I would advise against taking anyone else along for your
initial look at the litter, unless you plan to have the pup live most of his life at a
trainer's. In that case, do bring the trainer with you...and let him pick out
the best pup for him to work with! Otherwise you will be confused with too
much input and differences in preferences and interpretations of puppy appearance and
behaviors. After all is said and done you must make your own decisions, based on the
pup's appeal to you. You have to want to have a relationship with this
particular pup before anything will work between you and him!
Remember
also that just because you have made one, or even several, visits to a litter, you are not
obligated to buy a pup out of it. Do not be afraid to tell the breeder that his pups
just don't quite meet your needs. Be courteous, but also be honest: the breeder may
be briefly insulted, but you do not need to live 10-15 years with an unsatisfactory
dog or have the trouble of returning him at a later date or finding him another home.
Don't be the fall guy for a breeder's hard luck story or "special deal.
"And don't worry that if you pass this litter up a better one will never come along;
as long as you are willing to wait, just the right choice will eventually come your way!
It's
now time to take a look at some puppies. Before your visit, ask the breeder if he
has worked the pups on a fishing rod and wing and/or on any live birds. If he
hasn't, ask if he minds if you bring a rod and wing with you, to play some games with the
pups. (We'll discuss how shortly.)
You will be looking for a number of different
characteristics in evaluating a pup's field potential:
1. The
position of the pup in the litter vis-a-vis his littermates, i.e., his place in the
pecking order.
The
current vogue for temperament testing is not very useful in evaluating field trial
potential. The best clue is to question the breeder and anyone who has spent a lot
of time with the litter. In general, breeders will be truthful: An experienced
breeder will not want to place a dog that he knows won't work out for trialing into a
field trial home. An inexperienced breeder won't know what particular answers you
want to hear and will most likely give you his honest opinion, if he has one.
Ask
these sorts of questions of the breeder and keep a separate list to record your own
observations of the litter as a whole:
If
the answers to questions 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, and 10 point to the same few pups, especially
if they are not the ones also mentioned in the replies to 2, 5, and 9, the odds are that
these are the pups that you will want to focus your attention upon.
Hopefully
there will be at least two or three pups in this batch and you can now remove them from
the rest of the litter for your own observations. It will be important to be able to
identify which pup is which at some distance now, so if the breeder does not have them
marked in some easily distinguished fashion, ask if you may tie a bright piece of yarn or
ric-rac around each pup's neck while you observe them.
Be
prepared in advance for this by bringing with you several 16"-20" lengths in
markedly different colors. Tie them loosely around the pups' necks and trim off any
excess hanging ends. Pups who have been wearing collars or ribbons won't notice any
change, and the ric-rac or yarn is lightweight enough not to upset greatly those unused to
collars, especially when there is something new and interesting in their environment to
grab their attention. If a pup is so bothered by a piece of yarn that a bird wing
can’t distract him, then chances are he isn't a pup you really want to consider!
As an adult he's apt to be more interested in pulling burrs out of his coat than in
hunting!
Take
your small group of pups to an enclosed outside area, preferably a yard that they have
already had some chance to explore and investigate. It will be helpful to have an
area that is at least 10' by 10' and clear of obstacles such as patio furniture, stairs,
or large bushes. You may have to do some rearranging of objects to achieve such a
space, and be sure to ask the breeder's permission first!
If
the breeder has been working the pups on the rod and wing, he will probably have an idea
where he prefers to work them, so try his suggested site first. If he hasn't worked
them at all he will probably be interested, cooperative, and helpful: After all he is
going to learn a lot about his pups too, and should do his best to make sure that they
perform well.
As
long as they don't become overly intrusive, it is fine for the breeder and any other
persons present to watch the pups work the rod and wing. To minimize distraction,
suggest that all persons present except yourself stay in one localized area, well back
from the cleared spot, refrain from excess noise and activity, but certainly share their
observations with you, since you won't be able to work the rod and watch all of the pups
simultaneously!
Don't
start right in with the pups on the rod and wing as soon as you all go outside.Sit down
for a while first with them; let the pups find out where they are and observe how they
interact with each other and their environment: Roll a tennis ball into their midst; spin
a crackly aluminum can; drop an old glove nearby; toss a couple of sticks a short distance
in front of them; sit down and stand up a few times; make funny noises with your lips
while they are climbing on you; stand and clap your hands and run away a few paces; squat
down and whistle.
Make
no abrupt movements, especially not at or towards the pups; nor harsh, shrill, or
excessively loud sounds. Do not swoop upon one, or snatch him up from the ground
without warning. Observe reactions. It would be helpful to have a notebook to
record your observations for later study, or even a small recorder for oral observations.
Mark
down anything noticeable, i.e., "'Green' pup took one look at that can and charged
it; 'Red' backed off from it.""'Blue' pup always seems to have something in his
mouth and will fight to defend it.""'Brown' is too busy bossing other pups to
interact with other objects in environment."
I
don't like visitors to a litter to do anything new with any pup on an individual basis
during the five-to-seven week period of age. All the pups know of life at this point
is being a member of a litter. The dam has by now at least partially weaned them and
is spending many hours a day away from them. But there is always a littermate around
for security. The pups' learning patterns and social behavior have all been
developed in relationship to the litter entity, and it is within the litter that you will
see the pups at their confident, socialized best.
Once
you remove your pup from the litter (when you take him home,) your first job will be to
replace the litter with yourself as his source of security and confidence. So why
drag the poor little tyke off by himself any earlier to encounter unknown people, objects,
and situations alone without the backup of his bulwark of littermates?
It's
no wonder that even a pup known for his boldness in the litter may appear timid and
hesitant under these circumstances! Especially if he's the sensitive kind of pup who
is very responsive to his environment: one who should grow up to forge a solid working
relationship with his owner, one who will listen to and hunt for him in future days
afield.
It
is only the "mindless idiot" type of pup - who is so wrapped up in himself that
Armageddon Itself could come and go and he'd never notice if he was busy chasing
something, or fighting, or digging a hole - who will shine under these circumstances; and
you won't have much hope of getting his attention with a shout or a whistle when he makes
up his mind to chase that bird or rabbit into the next county!So please first observe how
the pups react to you and your new objects from the established security of a group of
littermates!
If
you later observe or test them on their own, don't be disappointed if they don't react the
way they did in a group. Once you establish yourself and your environment as the new
security system, most of their virtues will begin to reappear. Remember, literally
everything in the world is a new experience for these little fellows at this stage!
Once
the pups are relaxed and enjoying exploring and interacting with their surroundings (5-10
minutes,) it is time to introduce the rod and wing.Any kind of fishing pole will do (I've
even made use of broomsticks and buggy whips!) as will any kind of wing.In a pinch you can
even use a handkerchief or other light fluttery piece of cloth!
Game bird wings are good; I prefer a full
pheasant wing; some folks will use just a couple of feathers. Wings can
usually be had for the asking at field trials, hunt tests, fun days, training
sessions, and from field trainers and game bird farms (who may charge a nominal
25 cents each or so.) You don't have to do anything to preserve the wings
and you can store them easily in Ziploc bags in the freezer. Remove them
as needed and there should still be a lot of scent to them when thawed.
You can purchase small bottles of various game bird scents at sporting goods
stores or through sportsmen's catalogs to refresh the wings, but remember that
most of the attraction of the rod and wing exercise is visual rather than
olfactory.
Use
a fairly heavy grade of nylon fishing line or household twine and tie the wing to the rod,
allowing it to dangle two-five feet beyond the end of the rod; you'll soon find your own
most comfortable position. You don't need to pierce the wing to attach the line;
just draw it tightly through some of the long feathers, work it down to their base, and
tie a good knot.
Now
it's time to play: Pups who have been worked a few times previously may see the rod and
wing appear and get very excited, running about, clustering up to you, or even beginning
to point and pounce at shadows, other objects, or each other. Let us assume for now
that this is their first experience with rod and wing.
Drop
the wing onto the ground a small distance away from the pups. Let it hit hard enough
to make a soft plop. If any of the pups notice it, hold it motionless as they begin
to approach it. When they are within an inch or two of contact, begin to pull it
along the ground away from them, at a pace that they can just keep up with.
Try
to avoid letting any pup actually catch the wing. If that happens (and it will!)
praise the puppy and stroke him gently while he has the wing in his mouth or under his
feet. If he is standing on it, reach under his chest and lift his front feet off the
ground, then gently ease it away from him and begin the procedure again.
If he has a death
grip on the wing, reach under his chest and lift him all the way off the ground, making no
attempt to take the wing out of his mouth. Hold him near your face and gently blow
into his nostrils, and it’s a good bet that he will open his mouth and you can
repossess the wing.Try to avoid forcing his mouth open, and in no case enter into a
tug-of-war with a pup over a wing.
Make
a note of which pup caught the wing and watch his reactions now:notice if he seems to be
looking about for the wing, if he approaches it more rapidly this time, if he audibly
sniffs the ground and/or displays a lot of tail action while looking for it, if he is more
aggressive in pursuit of it, or if he loses interest and wanders away.
Repeat
the procedure until all pups have a chance to encounter the wing. If the sound of it
falling to the ground fails to attract them, try lifting it up onto one edge and letting
it flutter back and forth in the pups' line of sight. Do not at this time jerk the
wing around rapidly, or let it land loudly directly behind any pup, and by no means
ever drop it directly onto a pup!
If
the majority of the pups react with interest and enthusiasm to the wing, make special note
of any pup who seems frightened by it, backs off repeatedly from it, or runs and hides.
Hiding is different from running off to play with something else or with a
littermate, but the really birdy pup will probably key in strongly to the wing.
A timid-appearing pup may just be having a bad day and deserves a second chance at
another time a few days later. But a second bout of timidity or total lack of
interest in the wing would push me strongly toward eliminating that particular pup from my
consideration, unless he is obviously sick or greatly distressed over something else.
If
the entire batch of pups being tested fails to respond to the wing with enthusiasm, then
your timing may be off in one of two ways: Either your use of the wing is too unskilled to
kindle their interest (not likely!) or the exposure is inappropriate at this moment.
It may be too hot; the pups may be too full or too sleepy to play; they may be
upset from recent shots or worming; or they may actually be ill. Try this litter
once more at a later date. If you have a friend with field experience you may now
ask him to come with you the next time. If there is still no response, you should
consider looking elsewhere for a top field prospect!
Let's
now get back to the pups who displayed an initial interest in the wing: As one pup starts
to become quite involved with chasing the wing, it may be helpful to remove the others,
unless they are off in another area and occupied with something else. (The single
pup won't miss his littermates for this brief time while he is so focused on the wing.)
As
the pup working the wing grows more confident and enthusiastic, you can begin to move the
wing faster along the ground or actually flip it through the air a few inches above the
ground and drop it briefly in different places. Try always to keep it within the
pup's line of sight.If he loses it, let him search for it briefly. If he can't
locate it, pull it along the ground or flip it through the air and drop it into his sight;
then let it flutter on edge a bit to attract him.
During
this play you may also encourage the pup verbally, saying such things as, "Good
boy/girl...where's the birdie? See the birdie; find the bird; good dog!"
Only positive praise should be used, and it is best if only one person talks.
Words coming from several directions may serve to confuse and distract the pup.
If
the pup catches the wing DO NOT chastise him or shout, "No!" or
"Bad dog!" Remember, all aspects of birds are to be positive and
you don't want to tell the pup he's bad for catching the wing when you'll be asking him
later on to retrieve a bird for you! Praise him for catching that wing (after all,
it's you who was clumsy for letting him do it!) Say, "Good pup, you got the
birdie!"
Don't
drag the wing out of his mouth, but encourage him to carry it, and praise him whether he
brings it in your direction or runs away with it. The point is that he has
demonstrated willingness to move while carrying feathers in his mouth, a positive sign of
retrieving potential.
Let
the pup carry the wing a few feet. Then go to him, or keep him by you if he has come
to you. While he is holding the wing in his mouth, stroke his back, tell him
what an absolutely wonderful little pup he is, and then blow softly into his nose and take
the wing when he releases his hold.
He
may release the wing immediately, will more likely take several chomps on it while
resisting its removal, or may release it and bite you hard for taking it away.The first
two reactions are acceptable; to me the second shows a bit more strength of character and
self-confidence. In either of these cases, the wing should be put out immediately for the
pup to work again, until his attention span wavers or you have seen all you need to of
this particular puppy.
If
you get the third reaction from an angry and aggressive pup, don't let him have the wing
again right away. You should demonstrate at once to the pup that his behavior is
unacceptable, not harshly but firmly. Pick him up in the air, give him a shake or
two, and say, "No! Bad puppy!" (In this case you are correcting him
for showing aggression toward people, not for anything to do with birds.) This
should be enough to interrupt his chain of thought and you can now put him down and show
him the wing again. If he continues his aggressive behavior with it repeatedly,
choose another puppy. This one will be stubborn and hard to train.
Never
overwork the pups. As soon as their attention span falters, put the wing
away. Schedule another session for several hours later or another
day. On second and third
exposures you should start to see ever-growing enthusiasm as the pups become familiar with
this game. Certain pups will probably display consistent behavior patterns, and
these should be the most interesting to you. While one lackluster performance on the
wing shouldn't cause instant rejection of a puppy, two, and certainly three such should be
cause for elimination. Also look for length of attention span to increase with time
and the number of exposures.
As
the pups respond with enthusiasm to chasing the wing, you should begin to notice a new
phenomenon: After a series of rapid starts after the wing, a pup may suddenly slow down in
his pursuit of it. He may drop his body into a crouch, perhaps with stiff tail; or
he may prance forward with high head and tail, thrusting a forepaw out with each step:
He is beginning to learn to stalk.
As
his advancing movements get slower and slower, he may freeze in mid-stride only inches
from the wing. Look fast, because this is his first point! To be followed
almost immediately by a quick pounce at the wing!
At
this time it is essential to flick the wing away just as the pup breaks his point and
begins to pounce, since he needs to learn to hold point on his birds. The goal is
for him to realize that the bird will fly away if he jumps at it but will stay in place as
long as he stays on point. If you happen to misjudge and he does capture the wing, repeat
the praising procedure as above. Remember: NO NEGATIVE CORRECTIONS ABOUT BIRDS!!!
Hopefully
by the second or third visit you can get at least one of your prospective choices to hold
point for several seconds. If the breeder is interested, ask him to work the pups on
the rod and wing briefly at least every second or third day between your visits to the
litter. If his is skillful with the procedure, his input will be very helpful to
you. If he
is unwilling or skeptical, or a complete klutz, don't press the point: he could do the
pups more harm than good!
If,
by your third visit to the litter, no pups show any indication of even an eyeblink or
"flash" point, you again may want to reconsider your options: A strong pointing
instinct is an inherited trait and it will be a lot harder to develop competitive field
ability in a pup who is weak in this area.
You
may also test the pups with live birds. Some pups who show little or no interest in
the rod and wing really turn on with a live bird. Coturnix quail are the ideal bird for
initiating young pups. Essentially an ornamental bird, they are small (between
tennis and softball size,) inexpensive (usually $1.00-1.50 each,) and remarkably hardy
given the maulings that they repeatedly survive from puppies.
They
also don't fly very far, so can usually be recaptured by humans if the pups lose them and
saved to use another day. They live nicely in a parakeet cage or cat carrier and do just
fine on chicken scratch and water. They are small and gentle enough not to frighten a young
pup, yet smell, sound, and move like the larger game birds.
Very
strong coturnix that have been raised in a flight pen may need their wings trimmed to keep
them from flying too far. Most of them only manage short hops of five feet or so,
but I have known some to fly close to 100 feet...too far for puppy eyes to follow!
In
lieu of coturnix you may use small pigeons, but you will have to pull four or five flight
feathers on each wing to keep them within puppy range. They can be a rather hefty
mouthful for a very young pup attempting to carry one around, and some pups simply do not
like the taste of pigeons and will refuse to retrieve them while gladly carrying all sorts
of other birds.
Introduce
the live bird following a short rod and wing session. At first just toss the bird
into the midst of or nearby the pups in your testing area and watch what happens.
Hopefully the bird will flap its wings and hop about, attracting the pups'
attention. One or several of them may chase it or pounce upon it simultaneously.
Generally one will emerge victorious, bird in mouth, and begin to carry it off.
Sometimes
another pup will grab a mouthful of bird and begin a tug-of-war for its possession.
Note which pup most often wins these contests. If the two pups that are vying for the bird
both become distracted by their rivalry and forget the bird to continue their fight, you
may be seeing potentially overly aggressive or easily distracted dogs whose basic birddog
instincts could be stronger.
Of
course you will note any signs of timidity or total lack of interest and eliminate these
pups also.Give any pups who seem overwhelmed by other littermates an individual chance to
encounter the bird, just as you did with the wing earlier.
Once
you have narrowed your choice to just a few of the pups, ask if you may take them into a
yard area with some fairly tall grass clumps, bushes, small brush piles, or other likely
hiding places for game birds. It would be helpful if the pups have already had some
chance to explore and play in this area. Be sure that the cover isn't so thick or
thorny that the pup will have difficulty moving through it, and that there is little
chance to him of injury, distraction, or of being frightened.
Again
just toss the bird out at first (it might be time for a fresh bird by now!) Once the
pups are well aware of it, stick it in a clump of grass or brush in a spot that the pups
will encounter in exploring the area and looking for the bird that "got away."
Watch for any pups that run about with their noses low to the ground and listen for
any audible sniffing.
Observe
the reactions of any pup that comes across the bird. Don't be dismayed if some seem to run
back and forth right past or even over the bird without noticing it: their noses haven't
been educated yet! You may need to sit on the ground very near the bird and direct
the pup to it several times before he makes the connection. But if he obviously sees
and smells the bird and then leaves it to run off to play with a littermate or with
another object or to crawl up in your lap, he may not be the pup for you.
Look
for pups that move quickly, obviously searching for something. When they find the
bird any of several behaviors is acceptable: pointing it by sight or scent, pouncing on
it, picking it up and running off with it are all good signs. A pup that lies down a
few inches from the bird, then barks and/or paws at it, is a bit unsure of himself and is
demonstrating the persistence of the original "setting" behavior. A little
more exposure to birds may build his self-confidence, so don't rule him out yet.
By
now you should have begun to reach some decisions about this litter. You should know
if there are any pups that interest you and have narrowed your choice down to two or
three; or perhaps one puppy has emerged as your favorite and the only question is, "Is
he the one?" Remember that a puppy is only potential, that although
at seven weeks of age he may appear to be exactly what you need, making him into the dog
that you want for field competition is up to you. Having picked the prime candidate,
the work has just begun!